Kent Coast
At the start of 2020, I had meticulously planned a road trip along the Kent coast, weaving through some of the county’s most storied locations. The itinerary promised a blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty, starting with Charleston House. Great Dixter, a stay at the beautifully understated Saltmarsh Farmhouse (discovered through the talented team at Aesme Studios), and stops in Rye, Camber Sands, Dungeness, Deal, Margate, and finally Whitstable, with a stay at the delightfully positioned Tides Cottage.
Like many plans that year, this one was put on pause; however, by September, with restrictions eased, I was able to salvage part of the trip, trading a sweeping itinerary for a more concentrated exploration. We based ourselves in Whitstable, with a day trip to Dungeness, soaking up Kent's coastal landscapes' raw, atmospheric beauty.
Whitstable: Timeless Seaside Allure
Whitstable offered everything one could hope for in a British seaside town. The harbour bustled with life, its edges softened by fading signs, perfectly imperfect playground lettering, and beautifully aged shopfronts—artefacts of typographic history that whispered their own stories. Fresh seafood was, of course, a highlight. Oysters, lobster, and home-smoked salmon were savoured against the backdrop of sharp green benches and spectacularly windswept sunsets that painted the skies in hues of gold and crimson.
Hammer Horror icon Peter Cushing’s home stood quietly on the seafront, its characterful charm as enduring as the man himself. And then there was the "bird party"—a gathering of seabirds that felt as theatrical as it was surreal, their movements set against the rhythm of the tides.
Dungeness: Sculptural and Sublime
A day trip to Dungeness brought its sense of drama. Known for its stark, almost otherworldly landscapes, Dungeness delivered on every promise: scattered sheds, weathered fishing boats, and fragments of engines, ropes, and buoys strewn across the shingle. The weather ranged from blustery to bright, providing cinematic quality to the scene.
Without a pilgrimage to Prospect Cottage, Derek Jarman’s former home, no visit would be complete. Despite the rain, wandering tentatively around the garden was a joy. The apocalyptic sculptures, arrangements of flint, and rusted relics felt deeply connected to the surrounding landscape—a reminder that a garden can be as unconventional as the imagination allows. The poem from John Donne’s The Sun Rising painted onto the black timber wall, added a quiet poignancy to the experience.
The Sound Mirrors: Eerie and Monumental
On the way back, we detoured to see the Sound Mirrors—monolithic listening sculptures from the 1930s designed to detect the sound of enemy aircraft. Their strange, futuristic forms are steeped in eerie beauty, their presence heightened by the journey to find them: a trek through a caravan park, under a fence, and around a lake. Standing before these haunting relics of pre-radar technology was worth every step.
Looking Ahead
While I didn’t manage to make it to Margate this time, the trip was no less inspiring. There is something uniquely restorative about the Kent coast—a blend of rich history, design, and natural beauty that lingers long after you leave.
Next time, Margate’s Turner Contemporary, the iconic Dreamland amusement park, and a stay at The Rose in Deal await. For now, the memories of Whitstable’s ghost signs, Dungeness’s raw beauty, and the quiet poetry of Prospect Cottage will do just fine.
